November 23, 2007

HEAD CASE

"If you beat your personal best whilst climbing in a passive and careful way, you must be setting your goals too low."


I've often thought about this since reading it in the Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide during the flight back to the U.S. It makes perfect sense to me when i relate it to how i onsight and redpoint routes. The percentage of pure commitment when a sequence doesn't feel right is pretty low for me. On difficult routes, i often spend enough time memorizing sequences that when i do finally redpoint the line, it's typically in a somewhat passive mode and with little struggle. There are those times when i do climb in the moment and succeed when things continually feel difficult and out of sequence, but i wish i could capture that head power more often. And now that I'm aware of it, I'm working hard to correct my lack of commitment. Self realization is pretty powerful if you are willing to accept the less attractive side of things and find the path to better yourself with that knowledge.


A lot of these thoughts are surfacing as i develop the slide show for the Sticks and Stones fundraiser in a few weeks. It's coming together, but i have a lot more work to do. I hope to see many of you there as it will be a great evening of community spirit. The venue is pretty small, so plan on being squished a bit!

The event information is located on the left side of this blog under EVENTS. If you have any questions, please contact me.