December 12, 2007

it's just a thought

Last year i had the opportunity to climb the Alex Lowe mixed classic Black Magic in Hyalite Canyon with my very good friend Jack Roberts. I was thinking about this route today and how it is likely one of my favorite single pitch mixed climbs. The crack eats up gear, but the day Jack and I climbed it, we had very little rock gear ( a few nuts, and a few cams) with us. It was pretty fun and i was very grateful to the soul who bailed off the route leaving behind a fixed stopper.


The route is of high quality. The movement is engaging. But what stands out in my mind is the partnership between Jack and I that day. We had some pretty good laughs when my leg cramped up while stemming the corner, and the much needed encouragement to "keep it together" while getting a bit run out above a #0 TCU in an icy crack. We both walked back to the truck that afternoon with huge smiles on our faces. For me, it was a perfect winter climbing day. It wasn't about the difficulty (pretty easy by today's standards) or style of the route (the old trad vs sport rant), but it was just two good friends out doing what we love. Days like that are my most valuable climbing achievements and give me motivation to search for those experiences time and time again.


Life is good...