June 06, 2008
holy choss batman
Heather half way through the crux.
Heather mid way up the route.
Sweet rock at the South Park!
South Park makes an appearance on the ole' blog! The sun came out yesterday so Heather and i spent the afternoon cleaning and climbing the new lines we've equipped at the South Park. It was windy and cold, even in the sun, but we had a good time working on the routes. I've been able to redpoint two of the five lines and Heather has one with her second line down to two falls. I think she'll get it next go for sure!
The South Park is located along the South Fork of the Snake River just a few miles up stream from Heise Rock. The routes are approx. 85 feet in length and slightly overhanging. We've been climbing and drilling in the rain on dry rock! The movement is unique at best with lots of open palming, wide sloping pinches, and other weird almost tufa like hand holds. The texture is good which makes the big palming holds usable! The South Park will definitely give you some endurance fitness due to all of the open handed holds, length, and angle.
If you want to check out the crag, you'll need a helmet (yup for sport climbing!!), 12 quickdraws, and a stick clip. There is still some choss lurking about and the belayer should be on guard constantly. If you grab something that is loose, please do us all a favor and remove it from the route. Like i said... holy choss batman!
To get to the South Park continue past Heise Rock in route to Paramount. Just before the cattle guard turn right onto East Heise Road (aka the South Fork Road). From this junction it's 3.2 miles to a small parking area on the right. There is more parking further up the road past the crag and I'd suggest walking back down the road to the trail instead of thrashing through the tick infested brush and thorny bushes. The crag is on the left (east) side of the road and faces southwest providing morning shade and afternoon sun. From the first parking area, walk up the road and look for orange marking tape around a small sapling; this marks the beginning of the trail through the thicket of sharp viney things that seem to reach out and grab you! This trail offers the shortest distance in possible thrashing from the road to the small boulder field at the base of the crag. The routes are adventurous and will remain unrated for now so expect to be entertained, puzzled, and pumped silly fighting your way up the routes. If you have any suggestions on the difficulty, please let me know. I'm very open to opinions and if the routes seem a bit over bolted, well, they are! I figure it's better to have more options in the chossy rock! Other folks involved with development include Justin Avenius and Chad Alldredge.