July 10, 2008

Ohh Yeah

Chad, Heather, and I arrived in Riggins late Monday evening. All went well with the drive. Thanks Mike for the suggestion to take Hwy 95 all the way. It is much faster. Plus you get to see some really cool things like dinosaurs, signs that say Firevorks, and other random Idaho radness!

It's been a long anticipated return to Riggins for me. Wondering if it's really as good as i remember it being. I was not disappointed in the least my second time around! Chad and Heather started working Chicken Dinner 5.13a with great results. Heather was able to lead the entire route on her first go. She has some hard work still ahead of her before she'll get the redpoint, but both Chad and I feel it's well within her ability to do it while she's here. Chad has the same route down to one fall and will likely get it on the next or the next of the next go! He'll then move on to Tractor Boy.


I checked out the moves on Shaven Haven 5.14a and found the headwall too crimpy for my current fitness (lack of crimpness that is!) and reverted back to my original desire, John Deere. Mike suggested these two routes are the same difficulty, but just requires different styles. I was able to lead through John Deere without any stopper sections. It is very powerful with big moves on holds that i can hang on to! This felt much more promising than Shaven Haven, so I've set my sights on this route for the trip.


It seems i constantly fight the project demons and just need to get past a few things. I fear arrogance in thinking I'm capable of climbing a route of this grade. It's been over a decade that I've put everything into what i might be capable 0f when it comes to sport climbing. I'm excited to put an honest effort into finding out if in fact I'm capable of climbing this route. Mike told me last night that the route has only seen two ascents since it was equipped back in the early 90's, that being he and David Roskova. Given the sheer talent to visit the cave since John Deere was conceived, it takes me back to that fear of being arrogant in thinking i could climb it. My third attempt on the route yesterday did give me some courage in feeling that it is obtainable. It might take me 20 attempts, but i do know i can pull from one hold to the next and hang on until i get to the pod, now i just need to put it all together and do it without falling!

Mike ([McClure] Tammy, Heather and I were bummed you couldn't make it up. Hopefully next time!) came up yesterday afternoon to work on Power Tube 5.14b? I believe this is the last route in the cave that he has not done. It was really impressive to watch him on the route. He's not far from getting it, perhaps in the next two or three attempts! He's been such a great motivator for me, and to watch him on the route really got me fired up to pull harder than ever on John Deere.
We're super excited to see many of our friends from Eastern Idaho next week. I made the comment to Chad and Heather the other day that we just don't have enough tattoo's to get things done in Riggins and that hopefully Matt has enough collectively for us to all send! Might want to visit the ink shop a few more times before you get up here, Matt!
Beach life in the afternoons have been awesome. It's the only way to stay cool down in town after climbing. Don't forget your swiming suits, sun tan lotion, and all of that other stuff you want to bring!