May 28, 2009

Crutches...who needs 'em?

Heather on Riff Raff 5.12c/d - Crank Cave, ID.
that's not a heel-hook with her right foot, but rather a horizontal toe wedge in a crack - can you say "holy core strength batman"??

Heather and I have been having a lot of fun trying to get into shape for our trip to Croatia next month. We should be climbing slabs and vertical face routes as there seems to be a lot of that in Croatia, but we can't help but gravitate toward things that are fun!


We've revived locals cave night at Crank Cave the last few weeks and even had some uber strong friends from SLC sample the place and help us reel in a consesious on the grades. Thanks dudes! There has been a lot of really great energy down there with much sending going on. I've been working hard at kicking out the crutches of fear and negative reinforcement from underneath my friends. It seems to be working. Jennilyn redpointed Free Fallin (5.11a) on her third attempt. Her previous top end redpoint was 5.9! After recovering from being sick and the last week of school, Heather is lapping with ease on The Bride of Crankenstein (5.12a) and has made significant progress on Riff Raff (5.12c/d). She may even send it before we leave on the 9th! That would be super cool!


Other great accomplishments at the cave include Chad Sr. redpointing Riff Raff last night. Nat topped out on Crankenstein with only some minor hanging at the crux. I've added another bolt to the Wave of Mutilation and am one step closer and having the line fully equipped and sent. I just need to decide if i want an independent line or if it will link into the Karma Police anchors.


It's been a lot of fun exposing fears and helping friends realize that they control in a direction opposite of success. I've learned a lot about my own fears too. Hopefully we will all continue to learn from them and make progress as the summer continues.