Dean Lords: New River Gorge

May 17, 2009

New River Gorge - W. Virginia

Bouldering with Moses (yes, that is his real name) from Metolius while at the New River Gorge in West Virginia.

3 comments:

Abram Dickerson said...: Dean, if this moses came to metolious from bellingham, give him a hello from us, we climbed together in WA.; May 17, 2009 7:19 PM
davidio said...: yeah - Moses used to work at Backcountry Essentials, right?!; May 17, 2009 9:04 PM
Dean Lords said...: Yup! The one and only Moses from B-ham; May 18, 2009 3:27 PM

During the autumn of 2004 a crew of locals including Eli Watkins, Justin Avenius, Abe Dickerson, Heather Lords, and various other friends explored and developed two areas in the lower Teton River Canyon northeast of Newdale, Idaho. The first and most popular was an area we called the Dam Boulders. This is a cluster of boulders on the south side of the Teton River approximately one mile downstream from the old Dam site. We spent countless evening and weekend sessions exploring and establishing dozens of boulder problems on many of the erratics clumped together on a very user friendly gravel bar. The movement is good. The landings are even better, and there is room for other routes on many of the boulders. We did not feel naming the individual problems would be worthwhile and would only detract from the creativity of bouldering down there. However many of the boulders themselves received names like The Big Dam Boulder, The Walrus, Chick Rock, and a few others to help identify their location. At this time, there are no suggested ratings for the problems at the Dam Boulders; only imagination, a long walk, and the joy of movement… oh yeah, and the occasional rattlesnake!

The second area we explored was a short, junky looking wall on the north side of the Teton River just below the dam. We called this area the Junkyard Cracks. The climbing consists of desert style splitters ranging in size from tips to fists. Routes like Kidney Failure climb out from underneath a horizontal roof, while others are either inside corners or perfect face splitters. Although relatively short, the routes at the Junkyard Cracks are real jamming routes right here in Eastern Idaho. Typical with local choss, the wall doesn't look appealing, but the jamming is on clean cut sandstone-like rock. A good map that shows the farm roads on the north side of the Teton River is essential. Good luck!

Crank Cave is located along the basalt cliffs of the Blackfoot River Canyon south of Idaho Falls. The first two routes established by myself and Chuck Odette in 1993, climb the overhanging walls outside of the cave proper. The cave sat dormant for over a decade until local climber, Matt TeNgiao, equipped several routes on these same walls in early 2007. With new found motivation thanks to Matt, Heather and I quickly jumped on board and established The Bride of Crankenstein 5.12b. Shortly after, I equipped the first line across the horizontal roof of the main cave. This route was dubbed Karma Police 5.13c(?) when i redpointed it dispite anchor vandalism and the theft of my quick-draws. About the same time, Matt equipped the powerful and brilliant, Soul Power 5.13a(?) which he recently redpointed. This route climbs out the right side of the cave.

The next line to climb through the main roof of the cave was called Riff Raff 5.13(?). This route offers dead horizontal movement through a series of powerful underclings to an amazing sequence involving hand jams and foot cams in the roof. This is followed by shallow pockets, crimping, and tricky feet to gain the "pod" just below the final bulge and headwall. It's not over! Long pulls, heel-hooks, and some pocket pulling will get you to the anchors. A variation of El Jefe 5.12a branches right and finishes through the last bulge of Riff Raff. This is my wanna-be lip traverse called Love to Burn 5.12b/c(?).

As the indian summer of 2007 raged on i continued my wave of mutilation at the Crank Cave. The final line of the season resulted in a clean and brilliant line inbetween Riff Raff and Karma Police. I have yet to finish this route, but those who have sampled the movement suggest it's the best hard route the cave has produced!

The majority of climbs in the Crank Cave require a stick clip to start the route. As with any newly developed area, loose rock should be expected and is important to remember: DO NOT stand,walk, or socialize below the climbers. We lovingly refer to the rock as 110% high quiality choss! It doesn't look great, but it offers superb movement. These routes are best described as powerful and sequential with cryptic movement. Have fun and be safe.

A current topo and route information for the Crank Cave will be available in the second addition of Sweet Spots by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgiao due out in April of 2008.

Peak 11,308 is located a few miles south and west of Borah Peak in the Lost River Range, Idaho. The southwest face of 11,308 currently offers two springtime technical mixed routes; the White Line Couloir (M5) and the Sideline (WI3, M4). Both routes offer a couple of moderate techncial chimney pitches combined with a few hundred meters of steep snow couloir thrown in for that classic alpine feel.

A short approach, scenic summit, and a walk-off descent make for a great introduction to mixed climbing in the Lost River Range. The Sideline is the little brother to the White Line, offering 80 meters of enjoyable mixed climbing in a chimney system followed by a few hundred meters of ice bulges and steep snow in a couloir. The ice varies from year to year and the protection can be somewhat tricky during very thin conditions. Even when fat, don't plan on swinging your tools too hard! Mixed is the key word for these routes! A hand full of stoppers, cams, pins and 10cm ice screws will be adiquate in any condition. Both the White Line and the Sideline can easily be linked together providing a fun day of mixed climbing.

Peak 11,308 holds potential for other technical mixed routes but requires specific spring conditions for these routes to form. Don't be suprised if a few more lines are established during the next season or two. The word is out and i'm excited for others to bring their vision to this peak.

May 17, 2009

New River Gorge - W. Virginia

3 comments:

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