July 10, 2009

and the winner is...

Quart of Blood Technique.

Last year i scoped out a few sectors of limestone in Palisades Creek and came back with some worthwhile findings. I wanted to start establishing routes this spring but the opportunity for a trip to Croatia and the super poor spring-time weather kept me from doing so. I passed on some photos and locations to Matt TeNgiao to check out. He too was excited about the potential. Knowing i was going to be gone most of the spring and being the gentleman he is, Matt asked if i had any reservations about him starting the equipping process. (one of the many great things about most of our local climbers... they have a lot of respect for each other and the hard work that goes into sifting through miles and miles of choss to keep the local scene going! I love where i live and the people i get to climb with.)

In my absence Matt has equipped a handful of quality routes for all abilities, including a few projects to work on. Typically i equip routes out of the need for new terrain to climb or the inspiration of a particular feature or peak. But with the hard work Matt put in the last few months, i have some new routes to work on and no real need to equip new routes other than one or two inspiring features at the new Palisades Creek wall called the Weeping Cave. And maybe a really cool looking sector near the Weeping Cave. And this one area in the Lemhi Range. And maybe, well, you get the point!

Matt took Heather and I out to the Weeping Cave yesterday to show us his work. I had a blast and so did Heather. We climbed some really fun .10's and .11's on featured but technical and challenging limestone. One of Matt projects he has dubbed "The Quart of Blood Technique" is AMAZING! I do not hesitate to say it is by far the best new route of the year and may easily become my favorite route in Eastern Idaho. An impossible looking line with hidden holds that are really good. The line is sustained, powerful, and pumpy as hell. Lots of knee drops, lock-off's, and techy feet. CLASSIC in every way. Nice work TeNgiao!

I am excited to go back and redpoint the route after Matt get's the first ascent; which won't be long as he had it down to one hang on his last attempt of the day yesterday. At any rate, here are a few photos that Matt took of Heather and I along with a couple of images i took of Matt with his camera.

For more info on the Weeping Cave, check out http://www.seiclimbing.com/

that's me on Sasquatch 5.10d

Heather getting techy on the deceptive 9 Cow Wife 5.11b

Matt getting ready to gaston on the Quart of Blood Technique

Another shot of Matt