I've been climbing a few days a week at Midget Widget the last few weeks. Abe Dickerson and I spent a morning out climbing some of the routes i established last fall. To my surprise they were just as fun as last year. Although the routes are short, they offer some pretty fun climbing. Basically, if you take the crux section of any trad route and place it on the rimrock basalt of Meadow Creek, you will have any one of the climbs at Midget Widget! Bouldering with cams is what i like to say!
It is short, but it definitely teaches you to protect the route. Some of the lines would easily protect with two cams, but hitting the ground is very likely due to the short nature of the some of the routes, so i find myself protecting the routes against ground falls more than anything. If you do venture out to Midget Widget, please bear in mind that it is basalt and somewhat brittle, so the likely hood of breaking a hand or foot hold is very possible. And depending on where you are on the route, you could easily hit the ground. Be safe please.
Jennilyn Eaton and I have been developing a new sector southeast of the main zone. Currently we have three new routes with a possibility of several more all on the same wall. These routes are a bit taller, maybe 5o to 55 feet and require a bit more boldness than the splitters from last year. Expect some committing face climbing and marginal gear.
Also of note, we established a nice corner crack on the north facing wall just to the south of the "Widget of Oz" . I will put together some more route info once we get the remaining lines done at the new sector. In the meantime here are a couple of photos.