Crutches...who needs 'em?

Heather on Riff Raff 5.12c/d - Crank Cave, ID.

that's not a heel-hook with her right foot, but rather a horizontal toe wedge in a crack - can you say "holy core strength batman"??

Heather and I have been having a lot of fun trying to get into shape for our trip to Croatia next month. We should be climbing slabs and vertical face routes as there seems to be a lot of that in Croatia, but we can't help but gravitate toward things that are fun!

We've revived locals cave night at Crank Cave the last few weeks and even had some uber strong friends from SLC sample the place and help us reel in a consesious on the grades. Thanks dudes! There has been a lot of really great energy down there with much sending going on. I've been working hard at kicking out the crutches of fear and negative reinforcement from underneath my friends. It seems to be working. Jennilyn redpointed Free Fallin (5.11a) on her third attempt. Her previous top end redpoint was 5.9! After recovering from being sick and the last week of school, Heather is lapping with ease on The Bride of Crankenstein (5.12a) and has made significant progress on Riff Raff (5.12c/d). She may even send it before we leave on the 9th! That would be super cool!

Other great accomplishments at the cave include Chad Sr. redpointing Riff Raff last night. Nat topped out on Crankenstein with only some minor hanging at the crux. I've added another bolt to the Wave of Mutilation and am one step closer and having the line fully equipped and sent. I just need to decide if i want an independent line or if it will link into the Karma Police anchors.

It's been a lot of fun exposing fears and helping friends realize that they control in a direction opposite of success. I've learned a lot about my own fears too. Hopefully we will all continue to learn from them and make progress as the summer continues.

Local Flavor

Heather on her route - The Bride of Crankenstein

Daddy long legs, Rick Williams getting committed at the crux on The Bride of Crankenstein

Jennylin Eaton on Powder Finger

I finally made it out to Crank Cave yesterday afternoon. Heather, Rick, Chad Sr., and Jennylin all climbed till we were pumped and our hands raw from the sharp rock. It was great to be back out there. I was surprised at how difficult the routes felt to me, which i am happy about!

The more traveling i do, the more i realize that our local choss is pretty darn good for what it is. I'm psyched to have all of the variety so close to home. It's may not be world class, but it is pretty cool!

New River Gorge - W. Virginia

Bouldering with Moses (yes, that is his real name) from Metolius while at the New River Gorge in West Virginia.

fitness program

It is official, Heather and I have obtained plane tickets to Croatia! We will spend most of June rock climbing at various sectors throughout the country of Croatia. Our crew consists of Christine Balaz, Will Mayo, Nathan and Sheri Smith, and us! We are excited and working hard to get some fitness so we can show up prepared to climb a lot!

So as a result i've created the fitness program of mass destruction! What does that mean... well, i don't really know, other than to climb as much as we can before we go. Between gym sessions and a few good days of weather, i've climbed six out of seven days this week. Heather climbed four out of the last seven days.

Heather and I headed over to Shoshone Cave yesterday and met up with Nathan and Sheri. We spent most of the time at the little cave which was a good thing for me as i was performing like i'd been climbing hard the previous five days, but regardless of falling off of things, i was there for fitness... good excuses, eh??
This was Heather's first time at the Little Cave and she did well. She and Nathan were able to redpoint one of the routes there as well as flash the warm-up which isn't that easy in my opinion. We buzzed over to the big cave and decided to check out the bouldering at the Channel. Heather and I had not been there before, and Nathan had, but did not get to climb.

Typical with Idaho climbing, the Channel is unique in so many ways. First, you walk through the sagebrush where there is no visible cliffs for miles in every direction.

Once down in the dry Channel bed, the walls on both sides are worn smooth by the decades of moving water; creating bizarre scoops, pods, and all manner of weird sculptures.

The climbing is just as unique as the shapes of the stone. We did a few cool problems before the mosquito's came out in force and we retreated to the sagebrush landscape above.

It was a great day of fitness with Nathan and Sheri. On our way home, Heather and I stopped at Pickles Place in Arco feasted on Bacon Cheeseburgers! Our body's were thrashed and our appetites craved meat, which we indulged in! We finally arrived home just after midnight, tired and fulfilled from a good day of sport climbing and bouldering.

I looks like the weather is taking a turn for the worse this coming week. I will also be leaving for West Virginia again in a few days. I hope i can keep up with the fitness program this week!

getting outside with kids - YES you can!

A good friend of mine passed this on to me a while ago and i'm just now getting it posted on the blog. Heather and i don't have kids yet, but we spend a lot of time with friends who do. Today, The Dirtbag Diaries launches a new companion site – The Outdoor Parent. Our goal: provide stoke. Stoke to get you out of bed before dawn for a long run through the woods or a solid surf session at a favorite break. Stoke to rally the kids out for a weekend of camping beneath dark, starry skies or just around the corner to the edges of your local park. We celebrate skinned knees, hand-me-down jeans and big smiles. We believe in unchecked imagination and learning by doing. Already, we’ve got some posts up and running. Please have a look around. Leave a comment and let us know what you think. The Outdoor Parent is looking for contributors so if you’re interested or know someone who might be, please drop us a line.
Here is what you can expect from us.
* Perspective from climbers, skiers, surfers and modern explorers who have embarked on the ultimate adventure — parenthood.
* Interviews with athletes who prove that chasing the dream and instilling a love of the natural world in kids are one and the same.
* Creative tips for turning the natural world into an outdoor classroom.
* Thoughtful discussion on topics that concern you — balancing personal goals with raising a family, risk, the environment.
Please visit www.theoutdoorparent.com. For more information, contact Fitz Cahall at mhtml:%7B20A03085-F8B1-4422-BEFC-792957F17BF7%7Dmid://00001118/!x-usc:mailto:fitz@theoutdoorparent.com or by calling 206-890-9533

It's been a very busy week where technology has not been my friend. Changing my ISP and cell phone provider, upgrading to a Blackberry so i can stay on top of work obligations while traveling, and luckily some climbing! I've lost texts and voicemails, missed emails, and basically had a very difficult week trying to catch up from being on the road the last ten days. Finally getting caught up though.

My slide show went well in Boise. A great turn out for a great event. I am a big supporter in climbing community based organizations that focus on crag stewardship, access, and impact needs within their region. The Boise Climbers Alliance is just that. It was an honor to speak on behalf of that group to a large audience of climbers who recreate at many of the local crags around Boise. I hope people enjoyed the presentation and found some inspiration to explore their backyard and be a positive contributor to the continual growth of climbing here in Idaho.

We had breakfast the next morning with Dusty and some of the BCA crew before leaving town. Heather and I really enjoyed the hospitality and kindness from this organization and look forward to seeing them out and about. After breakfast, we headed for the sport routes at the lava caves north of Shoshone, Idaho to find shelter from the rain. Things were a bit drippy but we found some routes to climb and got some fitness in. I called Dave Bingham on our way to the cave and he jumped in the car and rallied down for a cave session with us. We had fun and it's always a great time hanging out with Dave.

This week is busy with making travel arrangements back to W. Virginia and our upcoming trip to Croatia as well as finishing up some final editing needs for the Alpinist article on alpine cragging here in Idaho. The weather does not look promising so likely Heather and I will spend some much needed time at the gym. Maybe we'll see some of you there...