Dean Lords: off to the Swiss Alps

April 23, 2010

off to the Swiss Alps

I'm leaving with a backpack and duffel full of climbing equipment and pulled muscles in my forearm from the climbing gym session this evening. Psyched for Swiss limestone. NOT PSYCHED to start the trip with an injury.

5 comments:

Ricardo said...: Dude, someone put your hat on crooked... You'll get a sunburn on your right eye.. have a great trip....; April 24, 2010 at 7:18 AM
The Tengaios said...: All you need is a PHAT gold chain. Ice, ice baby.

Sorry to hear of injury tho. Speaking from experience, that damn plastic will do it to you.

Have a safe trip and represent!; April 24, 2010 at 8:09 AM
Polly said...: Sounds like fun. You have some really great pictures on your blog!; April 24, 2010 at 10:08 AM
Princess said...: What's the injury, Deany W?

I hope you have a rockin' trip.; April 24, 2010 at 11:09 AM
Ben Eaton said...: dang it! someone beat me to the crooked hat joke. (it was funnier than the one I was going to say.); April 25, 2010 at 7:18 PM

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Palisades Creek

Located in the Snake River Range east of Swan Valley is the ever popular Palisades Creek. Mostly known for its Lower and Upper Palisades Lakes, Palisades Creek also offers outstanding limestone climbing. The two sectors are known as The Weeping Cave and The Pines. Both offer easy vertical routes and overhanging desperate projects.

A collective development effort between East Idaho locals Matt TeNgiao, Tom Smartt, and Dean Lords started during the spring of 2009 and continues today. Currently only two sectors exsist however, new potential abounds and it's only a matter of time before the other pockets of good stone get developed.

The Pines and the Weeping Cave are located on the north side of the trail about two miles from the parking lot. Complete info in the Guides section of SeiClimbing.com

Some fixed draws exsist on the harder steep cave routes and a stick clip is maditory at the Pines unless you like gambling on the suspect rock to reach 1st bolts... which don't have clipping holds! Enjoy the hard work from the route developers and please respect their generousity by not stealing fixed draws and lower off carabiners.

Dam Boulders - Lower Teton River Canyon

With just over 80 established boulder problems up to V9, the Dam Boulders in the Lower Teton River Canyon are turning into an area hot spot for the Upper Snake River Valley climbers.

Located below the Teton River Dam just north and east of Newdale, Idaho, the Dam Boulders are a series of short vertical walls and various erratics of all shapes and size.

Check out www.tetondamclimbing.com for all the current beta. Also, check this site in the near future for the first edition PDF guide for all things bouldering in the canyon.

Teton Canyon Mixed Climbs

The steep limestone wall behind the Right Ghost WI-4/5 in Teton Canyon offers a couple of worthy sport style mixed climbs. The long slog from the valley floor up to the Right Ghost is a bit more enticing with these optional varations.

Both lines are best climbed in true mixed fasion... before the pillar touches down! Once the Right Ghost is touching, it quickly fills out and it becomes easy to stem between the rock and ice right from the start. Get 'em early in the season for the full value experience!

Somewhere Between Heaven and Hell is the more difficult line on the left of the Pillar. Poltergeist is the right hand line. It's a bit easier and a bit more spicy early in the season.

Further up the South Fork are several worthwhile traditional mixed climbs as well. Some are two pitches in length. And for the full alpine mixed climbing experience, make the trek up Roaring Fork and scratch your way up Table Mountain's Southwest Chimney. Follow Jack Tackle's summertime 5.8 rock route; in winter conditions it is one of the best Scottish style mixed climbs i've done!