May 26, 2010

Project Topo

**UPDATED

Chelsea Wood Rollins working on the newest addition to the Quarry. "The Thing That Only Eats Hippies" is located up and left from Hot Lava. Just look for the three foot tall landing zone made of logs and rocks beneath the lip of the boulder. We're not sure what lives in the cave but it leaves big turds!






The Quarry - Lower Teton River Canyon
click for a larger view
Photo: Justin B.

This is definitely premature in arrival, but i thought it would be good to give a brief overview of what the Quarry looks like. I have combined some select info to the photo and info Justin Brunson put together. This is only a selection of what has been done and not a full listing of the boulder problems. I believe Justin B. and Joel Nielson are putting together an Internet site with all of the info available. Which will serve the east Idaho community long after this blog post gets buried.

DIRECTIONS:
Find your way to the south side of the Teton Dam Site. Access is off of Hwy 33 east of Newdale, Idaho. At the end of the paved road turn right onto the dirt road and park. Hike due north, descending directly down into the Teton River Canyon. Bear northwest for about 50 yards once you drop over the canyon rim and follow a nice grassy clear cut between the trees and brush. Once you reach the bottom of the canyon, turn left and walk 50 yards to reach the Quarry on your left. Approx 3 minutes! Essentially you are descending the gully and bowl to the left of route 1 on the topo.


ROUTES:
RED: info gathered by Justin B.
The Thing That Only Eats Hippies - just up the hill and left of Hot Lava. Look for a large overhanging cave like boulder with a large pile of logs and rocks below the opening of the cave. Start on the right side and traverse the lip of the cave. Pull out and get serious about topping out!
1. Hot Lava - Shallow pocket with the right and move up to the corner with the left, then huck to the lip. OR, pocket with the left, hit the crimp up and right, then PULL to the lip.
2. Not Cho Cheese - Stand or Sit Start. Crimp up the triangle shaped face. The right edge of the boulder if off
3. Cool Ranch - Sit start. Follow the left trending right side rail/outside edge of the Doritos boulder. Holds on "Not Cho Cheese" to the left are off. First known ascent (FNA) Beth Avenius
4. Baby Slab - Easy and fun.
5. Jack in the Crack - Inside corner. Easy... but if you blow it, you're gonna fall a long way. The crux is near the top.
6. Killing of a Flash Boy (Dean Lords Project) - Two really difficult pocket pulls to a sloper finger hold, then the lip. Dam hard for just three moves.
7. The Floor is Liquid Nitrogen - Easy. Needs to be brushed and cleaned up a bit.
8. Bazooka Joe - Incredible and difficult outside overhanging corner. This route is identical to the famous sport route at Smith Rocks called "Chain Reaction"! It looks the same, climbs the same, and is about the same height; only Bazooka Joe doesn't have any bolts! Stack a lot of pads for this highball.
9. Vendetta - Cool techy face climb. High.
10. No Name - FA, Chad Witbeck. Tall techy slab climb.


YELLOW: Dean Lords info
0. Biggy Slabs by Tom Smartt - Easy but tall slabby face climb.
1.Through the Never (open project) - Underclings to half pad crimps. Slightly overhung and very, very difficult. Don't fall off the left side of the landing!
2.Sippin' on Sunshine - Fun slab climb to the right of Vendetta. Make sure you pad the tall block on the right side of the landing zone!
3. Long Black Cadillac - Hard start to the pocket. Hard pull to the crimp. Hard pull to the rail. Hold on and don't fall off the top. The area classic!
4. The Seven Deadly Sins - Fun and moderately hard outside corner/rain problem. To make this legit, don't use anything to the right of the corner/rail.
5. Dirty Lieback - Crack that needs to be cleaned.
6. Sidewinder - On the upper most Tier is a diamond shaped block that looks like the head of a Rattlesnake. Sidewinder follows the right side of this feature. Sit start. Move up to the lip and traverse right on a series of pumping moves. Heel-hook and press out the top.
7. (Dean Lords) - needs to be brushed and cleaned. Name forthcoming.
8. Fun slab. Needs to be brushed.
9. Lumber Jill - Follow a line of holds on the left side of this left facing dihedral.
10. Lumber Jack - Sit start for full value. Follow a line of campus board crimps that trend right to left on the face of the dihedral. CLASSIC!

A couple of things to consider:
*I am not assigning V grades to any of my routes. Please feel free to do so if you'd like. I say just try hard if you like the problem!
*Lots of ticks in the spring.
*Lots of Rattlesnakes in the Summer.
**IMPORTANT... Please use chalk! This type of stone gets greasy very easily and will make the place a lot less enjoyable once it gets all greased up. Use chalk. If you are going to brush holds, please use a nylon or non metal brush to do so.
** If you're going to do the high ball problems, please do it right... with good attentive spotters and several pads. Accidents and injuries involving the Sheriff and/or EMS are never a good thing!
* There is a lot of misc trash down there; broken beer bottles, shot gun shells, etc. I've been packing a little bit of trash out every time i am down there. Maybe bring a small trash bag with you and pack a few things out from time to time!

4 comments:

Jaren Watson said...

Fantastic! I'm so excited about this area. Last night was a blast. Particularly fun was Lumber Jack. We all appreciate the intense scrubbing that has been going on.

t-rock said...

for yellow 0, how about the name "Biggy Slabs"

Justin said...

Awesome Dean, i was gonna put this up tonight but you beat me to it! i'll send you a copy of the latest topo once i get all the numbers in order. Seriously, this is so great!

eldergordon said...

Thanks so much for putting this info on the web. Its gonna make setting this place up a lot easier.