May 31, 2010

Memorial Day Afternoon



We added a few new problems to the Dam Boulders today. I made a few half-hearted attempts with my line at the Gothic Boulder and quickly realized i needed to come back with much more focus than what i had today.

Heather did add her new route to the left corner/face on the Gothic Boulder. (top photo)

We did two routes on an overhanging erratic north of the Gothic Boulder. Well, i guess it was actually three on this little boulder if you count the sit start left edge/rail. The line coming out of the pit is great pulling on good holds while the other line starting to the right is a bit more tricky with slopers and a fun "cut your feet loose and heel-hook to your left" sequence to it. I'll put some names to to these problems and i think we'll just call the feature itself the "Brad Pit Boulder".

I thought I'd remember more than what i do about the various problems i explored on the many small erratics littered along the canyon floor, but as i walked through, my mind seemed as dusty as the problems themselves. I guess it doesn't really matter to me. I'm just so excited to see this place getting the interest it deserves.

Speaking of such interest, we witnesses some terrifying displays of poor judgement at the Quarry. While i feel bad about yelling at some guys for climbing the hillside above the bouldering zone while their friends bouldered unaware of the impending barrage of big rocks that would soon be carelessly kicked off; narrowly missing the two guys below as large rocks passed by at terminal velocity, i don't feel bad about caring if people get hurt. Please understand that your actions as someone who climbs and/or recreates ANYWHERE does effect the overall understanding of what we do in the eyes of the general public and, more importantly, the various Land Management Agencies who could easily close access to the places we love to recreate. In short: think about what you are doing as one careless action could effect and entire community of climbers and recreationalists. Climbing is a privilage not a right.


. video

video

Well... this is pretty much how my day went. I could blame it on the rain and wet foot holds, but it still wouldn't help my cause! These are a couple of short clips of me on the right trending rail that we called "Lily's Man-child" which is left of Lily's Mantle. Wait for IT at the end of the seconde clip!

This is a great problem! On the west face of Lily's Boulder start low on the flat topped big edge on the left corner. Go up and follow the rail to the right; topping out on the highest peak of the boulder. It's much more difficult than it appears... well at least it was for me. And for the record, i was finally able to do all of the moves without falling off athough, it did take me the better part of our afternoon!

Also, we each did the Lily's Mantle problem and i thought this was a unique and very worthwhile little problem! Nice job Blair and crew!

video
In this video, Heather dances up Lumber Jill during one of our many afternoon sprinkles of rain.