June 10, 2010

The Teton Dam Bouldering Zone

Here's a bit of history in video format for everyone on the Teton Dam failure. I always marvel at the destruction/creation of natures forces when i walk along the the road in the bottom of the canyon.

This is an overview of the specific sectors in the Teton Dam Zone with highlights of the features at the Big Dam Boulder sector. Obviously this is an incomplete overview of established problems and projects as there are many, many easy problems that we (and others) have done over the years and projects not yet talked about. I'm sure a more complete guide will appear on Joel Neilson's web page which was created specifically for the climbing/bouldering at the Teton Dam site. However, this should be a good kick start for information on his page and a good "teaser" to get people down to the west end.

The style of movement at the Big Dam Boulder Sector is distinctly different than that of the Quarry. You can expect steeper, more gymnastic climbing which tends to favor all heights and abilities more than the Quarry Sector. Not to mention, many of the problems are less intimidating due to their shorter nature. Like the Quarry the stone is Volcanic Tuff/Ryolite.

Don't be lazy. Walk the 20 minutes. You'll have fun! Take a brush and clean things up if you do go out there. I noticed many of the older problems need some attention. And if you're going to establish new problems please do so with others in mind; brush the holds and do a thorough job so the end result is a clean quality line that others will enjoy. I am open to suggestions on the V grades to any of the problems listed here and the star ratings are based on my personal opinion of enjoyment!

Click on the images below for better detail.

The Teton Dam Bouldering SectorsLooking west (down stream) from the Dam Site
1. Switcheroo Erratics
2. The Quarry Sector
3. The Gothic Boulder
4. Lilly's Boulder
5. Brad Pit Boulder
6. The Big Dam Boulder Sector

The Big Dam Boulder SectorAs viewed from the two-track dirt road (looking south).
0. This is where #1 use to be!
1. The Cheese Wedge
2. Catacomb projects
3. The Crypt
4. Chick Rock
5.The Walrus
6. The Big Dam Boulder

The Cheese Wedge Down climb #2.
1. Open - We brushed some of it, but this wedge shaped face needs a bit more attention.
2. Sakura*** - Sit start using crimps on either side of the arete. Make a couple of hard pulls to the jug and then a bump or one big pull to the top.
3. Feta* - Sit start right of #2. Follow holds strait up. Holds on #2 are off.
4. The Big Cheese** - Same start as #3. Follow a line of crimps and slopers up and right finishing with a big move from a right hand side-pull crimp to the lip of the boulder.

**Corey King Project opposite of #1 (this one will be AWESOME!)

The Catacombs 1. The Crypt
Right to Left:
A. Rocket from the Crypt*** - Sit start on the right side. Jug hall and crimp up and left, exiting on the top left side of the feature.
B. Scream, Dracula, Scream*** - Sit start using two low crimps in the center of the face; under a small overhang. Pull up and right to another crimp near the right edge of the boulder, then back left. Connect with #A for two moves then finish strait up.
C. Ditch Digger* - Left side sit start. Move strait up and finish on #A

2. San Callisto*** - crawl into the hole. Start with the undercling. Desperate pinches and hideous slopers on the underside of this bulging and near horizontal "ships prow"; eventually reaching good holds near the top. The block and boulder to the right is off. The hardest established and recorded route to date.
3. Open Project - needs some cleaning but otherwise may not be too difficult.
4.Riley Everett Rollins Project - Sit start on the left edge. Move up a couple of moves then power right and up using pinches and underclings, then...????

Chick Rock

The Walrus
1. The Walrus - Sit start on small edges. Pull up and onto the slab to the right then up again.
2. Snake Eyes*** - Sit start on good holds in the crack. Move up and left palming the lip until two small pockets side by side (the snake eyes) can be reached. Pull to the lip. An area classic!!

The Big Dam Boulder
The West End
1. Left Side Love Handles*** - Sit start near the "cave". Follow the lip of the boulder all the way to the top of #3. Press out the mantle.
2. Love Hate Love* - Sit start. Either a BIG dyno to the jug or pull on a couple of sharp in-cut crimps. Press out the mantle.
3. Love Handles*** - Sit start with hands in the vertical pocket just right of the corner. Pull up to the jug rail and follow it up and left. Press out the mantle.
4. Dam Nation** - Sit start using the obvious big edge on the left side of the inside corner. Move up and left using pockets to gain the upper pocket/slot on the right side of the outside corner. Pinch a cool red knob and slap the top. Press out the mantle.
5. Dam the Man ** - Same start hold as #4. Move up to a pocket/side pull in the corner, hike your feet up and either static or huck to the good edge just left of the top of the inside corner
6. Another Dam Sit Start * - Sit start with hands on sloping rail. Heel hook the bottom of the rail and pull up to pockets. Traverse left using pockets and edges below the lip. Press out the mantle at the top of #3, #4, or #5
7. The Big Dam Pump - Start on the far right side and traverse the lip all the way to the left.
**Many variations to these identified lines

South side view of the Big Dam Boulder