June 01, 2010

to wish impossible things

I needed something. As it turns out, that something was Chad Alldredge.

Yesterday i walked away from my Gothic Boulder project feeling completely beat down; not knowing what i needed to boost my spirits. Falling off of easy problems and injuring the tendons in my middle finger by being stupid and climbing crimpers in the rain didn't help either. My feet hadn't stayed on anything all day, so why would i think Lumber Jack would be a good idea?

This afternoon Heather wanted to work on The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Lily's Man-Child. Chad was keen to join us and sample those problems as well. My intentions were to carry pads and spot so i could give my finger a few days to decide what it was going to do.

After six or eight tries, Chad dispatched The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Heather was able to link the crux moves until she broke the good part off of the bad hold! She did the crux one last time with the broken hold before we headed to Lily's where Chad made quick work of the Man-Child and Heather got close to sending it.

We walked around to look at few things until Chad suggested i show him my project at the Gothic Boulder. It wasn't long before we had our shoes on and i convinced myself that big holds would not further injure my finger. After we each sampled some of the movement Chad and I trundled a large slab that was two feet thick and as big as the hood of my car. This "killer" was hanging above a possible problem and took little effort to get it to go! The good thing is we got it out of the way. The bad thing is it landed right on the platform for my project. While this is a minor set back requiring some serious landing zone modification, the end result for the evening was seeing a glimpse of the possible with my project. It's on hold until we make the landing safe again but thanks to Chad, the project is consuming me once again!
The Bela Lugosi project at the Gothic Boulder: