July 16, 2010

An opinion, that's all...

Some people really get excited about the Fins. Me, not so much. Sure it's great stone, which is somewhat of a rarity in East Idaho but i can't help but see it as that one wall most people don't spend much time on at the local climbing gym... you know that boring vertical wall? Think about it, when was the last time you were so excited about the vertical wall at the gym??

This may sound a bit harsh to those friends of mine who think the Fins are the BOMB but i can rest easy knowing that our friendship isn't based on my opinion of the Fins!! I will say that i have enjoyed a couple of the routes out there; specifically, Solstice, Huck You, Avitar, and Shaken Not Stirred. I bet the Fins lovers are pretty much laughing at me right now, but hey, that's cool... I'm just not that into vertical stone which lacks any sort of enjoyable features outside of some good pockets and crimps. No corners. No overhangs. No changing angles. Just plain ol' vertical plywood with crimps and pockets... :-)
But hey, the place sure is pretty and has a great view!
Heather crushing the red taped route.. Only Time Will Tell 5.12a

Only Time Will Tell 5.12a

That's me on the blue taped route.. Koona 5.12a

Heather and i had a great day with Matt, Tom and Rick! Thanks for dragging me up there for my anual token Fins visit, i can't wait to go back (i'm being serious)! Ohh, and just remember; all of the above smack talk, it's an opinion, that's all...

8 comments:

Marc Hanselman said...

Where is that place... some secret spot?

You like?

Dean Lords said...

Hey Marc!
Looks like you got a comment in before i posted the text!

We had a blast today. It sure is fun up there, but i get the beat down everytime... which gets me psyched!

Hope to see you up there sometime this summer.

dave bingham said...

amen. There's more to "rock quality" than rock quality.

The Tengaios said...

Sure beats climbing choss and worrying if that clipping hold is gonna stay.

The thing with the Fins is that it is easily the best place in the area to climb when it gets hot. Yeah, the area lacks varying angles but it's not like it's low angled slab. Big moves that keep the power-endurance factor high coupled with holds (pockets) that are multi-directional makes the climbing style there pretty unique, really.

I know you favor the steep angles (which ARE rad too!) but in an area like southeast Idaho that is plagued by choss, you can't dismiss the quality of stone AND style the the Fins offers. It's a pretty special area.

So when we going again?

Marc Hanselman said...

You've got a big spoon Dean, stirring it up!

The thing that is great about the Fins is that the routes are techy and sequential; you have to think how to use the holds. It's not mind numbing thuggery that's for sure. The down sides are that there are really no easy routes and few jug hauls, plus your tips tend to give out before anything else.

When are you going to develop you futuristic cave in the Lemhis? I'd be down for some STEEP limestone pulling!

Give me a shout one of these days and I'll give you guys the Cedar Creek tour... there's some more variety there.

Dean Lords said...

I know you guys know i'm just having a little fun with this post and that i value your comments!

Futuristic Cave in the Lemhi's will have to wait for two things, first i need to find it!!! Second, i need to save a few more pennies to pay for hardware...

Cedar Creek... sounds great! Let's do it...

Marc Hanselman said...

Dean-

It looks like I might have some time later this week (thurs, fri) if you want to try and wrangle Matt T. into a Cedar Creek trip...?!

The Tengaios said...

Maybe with enough C4 we could blast one of the big fins over onto a 45˚...now THAT would be true radness.