July 01, 2010

summer heat, musings, and amature vids

Walking to the Weeping Cave during the hottest part of the day in order to climb in the cool evening temps was all most too much for me today. I'm not a big fan of the heat. It's nice for about a day... while sitting on a beach... in a foreign country... on and Island... but it's just not something i want to deal with on a regular basis.

The last few times we've been to the Weeping cave, the temps have been too hot for me to work on the Basilisk so for something to do while Heather works on Qt. of Blood Technique I (with the help of Riley Everett Rollins) equipped a new line in the choss on the left side of the cave. In my mind, this route has two issues.
1. The rock is super choss
2. The ground raises upward as the climb goes out.

This may not sound like a big deal since most of the routes I've established have been on chossy rock but, given the fact that you could break a hand or foot hold off at anytime, plus the ground rising up behind you required a bit of over bolting for me to feel comfortable with the idea of people climbing this line. Despite the closely spaced bolts, i think you could still possibly hit the ground if you mess up clipping the 4th bolt... and of course the 4th bolt is the most powerful clip of the route... go figure... Sound like something you wanna try right??

Dean Lords philosophy 101
I think it's pretty easy for anyone to establish a 5.12, 5.13, or 5.14 on good stone; but it takes a real effort to turn choss in that same difficulty range into an enjoyable and reasonably safe route. It's not just bolting, sequencing, then sending; its hours, days or weeks (in the case of several of my South Park routes) of tireless cleaning, hunting for the best possible and safest bolt placements, which, are never where they need to be for the best clip stances, and settling for.. "well, that's the best i could do to bring this piece of choss to life". Perhaps my down fall is opening routes with others in mind rather than some sort of personal agenda?

Back to the Weeping Cave
Heather and Riley worked hard on the Qt. of Blood while i warmed up for several hours solo choss busting on the newly equipped line on the left side of the cave before Nat Meacham and I turned our efforts into actual attempts.

This is the opening sequence into the first crux! I'd advise to clip the second bolt and use the first bolt to keep the rope out of your way. There really isn't a way to clip the second bolt before you could clip the third, and you'd likely hit the ground.

The day ended well. Riley made progress on Qt. and Heather was able to link the two dyno's together between the first and second bolts. Wade S. walked up Sasquatch on his second attempt and i was able to red point the newest addition to the Weeping Cave, Choss Choking Hoss, 5.13

We all celebrated like summer time junkies; with Mav Dog's and Chocolate Milk!