August 14, 2010

The Pines at Palisades Creek

Today marked one full week since Heather, Jaren Watson, and I started equipping routes at a new sector in Palisades Creek. I called a bunch of friends and invited them to check out the new projecting crag today. Matt T was in Boise for the Social Distortion concert and Tom S was at the City of Rocks. Despite the absence of these two hard men, we still ended up with eleven strong Upper Valley climbers! Even with all of the screaming and fighting attempts from a few of the strongest, only the warm-up route was flashed and/or redpointed!
Dubbed "The Pines" simply by default due to the massive pine trees concealing the entrance, this cave will be a great addition to the Palisades Creek Zone. Don't expect a cragging session unless you are climbing 5.13! The Pines is one beastly crag.

I thought it would be fun to do a short photo essay of the climbs.
Joe Crane, Chad Sr., and Heather walking the lush Palisades Creek Trail

Chad Alldredge on a causal walk up King of the Road 5.9

Boy Wonder, Sam Perkins, moving into the second of three cruxes on Toys in the Attic 5.12c

That's me gettin' on the Bandwagon (project)

a bit of wizardry on the Bandwagon

Heather starting into the opening crux on Ages of You (5.13a)

Heather mid route on Ages of You

Chad Alldredge crimping his way upward on the headwall of Ages of You

Yes, those are real.. and in East Idaho!

The Pines is located about 200 yards before reaching the Weeping Cave. Just after the dry creek channel with the rock retaining wall held together with chicken wire, when the trail enters the trees, you can follow a faint path up the hillside to the mouth of the cave.

There is still some work to be done on a few of the routes. More cleaning and relocating a few of the bolts. I am very appreciative of our local climbing scene and their willingness to come out and try these projects and to help me find the best engineering to accommodate most everyone who will visit this place. A few important things you should know about this cave:
1. the rock is not that great
2. the routes were engineered with a stick clip in mind... don't be a hero, it's just sport climbing, the rock is not great, and it's a long walk back to the car with a broken ankle or leg.
3. TRY HARD!

Route listing left to right:
King of the Road 5.9 - starts by the dead tree left of the cave. 4 bolts to lower off anchors.
Ages of You (5.13a)*** - starts on the left edge of the cave. 6 bolts to lower off anchors. Bouldery and powerful start to a good rest followed by an even harder bouldery lip crux and headwall.
Toys in the Attic 5.12c***- starts on the right side of the cave. 8 bolts to lower off anchors. Hard start followed by a juggy left traverse. Second crux comes at the bulge. Third crux is getting to the lip. Mental crux going to the anchors.
Bandwagon (5.13 closed project) same start as Toys but go strait up. Hard 4th clip. brilliant headwall. 5 bolts

6 comments:

The Tengaios said...

Thanks for posting pics of the new crag, you got me psyched. Tufas?…holy shit!

Social D. was the best show hands down.

Tammy and Mike said...

Tufas! nice post - thank you!

Michael Womack said...

This place is awesome! thanks dean

splitter choss said...

"the rock is not great", oh, except for those sick looking tufas! damn!

Dean Lords said...

Ty Mack and I redpointed Ages of You this evening! It's real fun; give it a go!!

JD LeBlanc said...

Dean, how can i get some beta on the limestone crags - jd leblanc
jdleblanc AT telusplanet dot net