April 29, 2010
Swiss Alps. Italian Alps. Famous Fred Nichole boulder problem. 8a in a day. 140 on the Autobahn with the top female climber from Austria behind the wheel. Largest climbing gym IN THE WORLD. Lensburg Castle. Swiss chocolate. Awesome pictures. Lost camera. Found camera. More awesome international friends. Good health. No jet lag. Limestone. Granite. Plastic. DISCO.
April 25, 2010
April 23, 2010
April 21, 2010
A long way from anywhere, Box Canyon is a great little East Idaho gem! The southern tip of the Lemhi Range offers local and visiting climbers a unique (for East Idaho) limestone experience. The established routes offer something for everyone, short powerful bouldery sport climbs, hard single pitch crimp fests, and enjoyable moderates. However, the main attraction for many climbers visiting Box Canyon are the classic sport multi pitch routes. Generally slabby in nature with average spaced bolts, the multi pitch climbs are superb!
I hear a lot of people say that the Box Canyon limestone is super sharp and correlate some of the crimp moves as to climbing on razorblades. I use to agree, but after climbing at many of the limestone sectors in Croatia, the Box Canyon stone is not that sharp compared to what other world class European areas offer. Sooo, stop your whining!
Texas Barbecue 5.12a
photo: N. Meacham
There are two zones in Box Canyon that offer multi pitch routes, the Bardini Wall and the Shade Wall. Both offer climbs up to three pitches in length. My favorite Box experience is the right hand route on the Shade Wall. Two nearly full rope pitches each, this route is spectacular in every way. The second pitch is the meat of the climb; it's easy to get lost in this sea of limestone crimps.
Heather at the anchors belaying Nat Meacham up the first pitch.
Heather on the stellar 5.11 second pitch!
It's easy to feel all alone on this route!
The Shade Wall in all of its glory! Can you spot the two climbers?
You can find all of the beta in Matt TeNgiao and Jerry Painter's guidebook, Sweet Spots of Eastern Idaho. Pick up a copy and help support our local guidebook authors and area route developers! Information is also available at http://www.seiclimbing.com/
Currently there is a bolting ban for the Box Canyon area due to nearby Indian artifacts and petroglyphs. If you visit, please treat this climbing area with respect, pick up your trash, don't be stupid, and help continue a healthy relationship with the BLM. Beware of rattlesnakes, summer mid day sunshine, cactus and the WIND!
April 17, 2010
Owl Cove offers several worthwhile sport classics and a few worthy traditional adventures. If you have access to a boat, getting to the Cove is easy, however, it's still worth the extra walking effort from the standard parking lot! Many of the routes are at least twice as long as most other Massacre Rocks zones. Bring your power, but be ready to use your endurance on the long Owl Cove Classics!
April 15, 2010
April 13, 2010
April 11, 2010
Heather Lords in front of the Pull Photography lens.
Heather cruising up a classic columnar corner.
That's me jamming a superb strait in splitter!
Sport climbing with cams!
Heather soaking up the sunshine while jammin' the goods! Nathan's static line and his foot are in the top right corner of this image. Oops, my bad!
I gave a good effort at on-sighting the Connor Column test piece. I was flashing until i fell off high on the route! No traffic and the presence of lichen made the feet a real challenge! It was fun climbing with sustained movements protected by #0 and #00 Metolius TCU's! And it even felt better climbing sustained moves when i could plug in #1's!