Community Defined

There is no doubt in my mind that Heather and I are blessed to live in such an amazing and beautiful place. Nearby family and friends along with vast country side and a life time of adventures are what keep us engaged locally. I have often talked about the close knit climbing community and the joy that we find in being a part of it. Ego, secrecy, and elitism are hard to come by in these parts and i could not be happier being a part of this climbing community.
Generosity, compassion, and motivation define our community here in the Snake River Valley.

Saturday morning we found an envelope on our front door with a letter (below) and some cash inside. This act of generosity by one individual or collectively as a group is a testament of the caliber of individuals who call this place home. The theft of my three crash pads is a complete bummer, but the compassion from this community is a sure sign of a community who can and will look after one another. We thank you for your friendship and for the cherished memories we have with many of you. The friendships i speak of stretch around the world and i must thank two others, Doug Shepard and Corey King, for their kind emails offering up their personal bouldering pads. You guys are awesome!

I ordered a new crash pad today... LETS GO CLIMBING!

Dear Dean & Heather Lords,

This local climbing community has developed and been enlivened into one of camaraderie and friendship through a mutual love of climbing, not in small part through years of peoples tireless service and effort like that displayed by yourselves. As a community we have been blessed to enjoy much in the way of local sport and traditional routes as well as high alpine routes and more recently, bouldering. Unfortunately the self focus of a small minority, in or out of the climbing community, has endeavoured consciously or unconsciously to undermine the open and sharing relationships that have thus been formed. This note is to say, keep your chin up, know that what happens to one or the few affects and has effects on us all, and there is still reason to celebrate and trust in us as a community. We are friends, and when a friend is in need, we as a community can effectively act in deed. You deserve the very best, your efforts and passion for climbing are appreciated and necessary for the proper spirit and future of climbing here in Eastern Idaho and indeed the world. Enclosed are some funds, although small, that will hopefully be of assistance with replacing physical property that was lost and more importantly in renewing ones faith in our local climbing community and indeed humanity at large.

Best wishes, Climb On!

choss choking hoss

There is a new route in the Weeping Cave! Riley Everett Rollins and I cleaned and drilled this new line which connects with the ending of Hoss, Choss, and Chaos. The opening dyno will give you a good idea what the line is all about!

The stone on the left side of the cave is a bit chossy to say the least. A high first bolt requires a stick clip to start the route which then follows a line of closely spaced bolts to protect you from hitting the deck on this short route. A couple of the bolts are in weird locations simply due to the lack of good stone where i wanted to bolts to go. The line may not be the most esthetic, on the best stone, or with perfect bolt placements, but it sure is a lot of fun to climb! Our new line will likely clock in at the 5.12+/.13- range.

Here are some photos of the new STEEP route called Choss Choking Hoss
Sorry, the photos aren't that great.

summertime is...

Nat Meacham projecting at the Weeping Cave

by definition

Basilisk: a legendary reptile reputed to be king of serpents and said to have the power to cause death with a single glance

Dean's definition of Basilisk: an overhanging line of crimps and slopers through two bulges, a knee-bar rest, and a head-wall of bullet limestone at the Weeping Cave. Thought to be by far the most difficult yet attainable route i have ever worked on... for reals.

got me hangin' on a rope

The theft of my crash pads and lack of money to replace them has forced me to hang from a rope again! I'm not gonna lie, i have really enjoyed my focus with bouldering this spring. The ability to reinvent myself on a regular basis has kept moving over stone as adventurous as the day i first came into contact with it.

Heather and I decided to visit the Weeping Cave in Palisades Creek today. She wanted to work on Matt TeNgiao's masterpiece, Quart of Blood Technique and i wanted to try my luck on the Basilisk project. We rounded up some good friends who we knew would be motivated to project routes with us and spend the better part of the day fighting hard, falling off, and just hangin' on a rope.

Heather warming up on the super fun route, Sasquatch 5.10c; another TeNgiao work of art!

Justin Avenius powering into the crux corner on the Quart of Blood Technique (project) 5.12+

Justin in the thick of it

Heather Lords stylin' the crux on the Quart of Blood Technique

Calm and collected. Heather mid crux.

The weather was darn near perfect; ideal temps, overcast, and a slight breeze. A thirty minute period of wind and rain late in the afternoon rolled on by, but we were still cranking away on dry rock... well, mostly dry rock. The four left most routes in the Cave are seeping in a few places but dry stone is easily found.

Heather, Justin and Riley all made pretty quick work sequencing the moves on the Quart of Blood Technique with each of them making two full laps on the route. Matt TeNgiao hasn't been able to return and make the first proper send of his rig so we all felt the just thing to do was to get the route dialed, and then come back after he sends it. Perhaps this seems a bit strange to some of you, but for us, the whole process of establishing routes means something and none of us feel the need to take our turn out of order. Go get it Mr. T. it's waiting for you!

As for the Basilisk, I had a break through on the upper bulge! I grabbed, hung on to, and pulled off of several holds that i couldn't come close to touching last year. Although light years away from being strong enough to put it all together, this is a huge success for me!

Thanks for all of the efforts and hard work to establish this climbing zone Matt. So many people are psyched on your superb routes.

gone missing...

I cached three bouldering pads Friday night (6/11/10) down by the Big Dam Boulder for various friends to use while I was away for work. As of Sunday afternoon those three pads have come up missing. Perhaps someone outside of those who knew the location happened upon them and cached them in another location or carried them out of the canyon??

If anyone has information regarding the location of my Metolius Collosus (green), Metolius Boss Hogg (blue/black) and black Mammut pad, please contact me at deanlords@gmail.com

If in fact these pads were stolen it would be a sad reflection of where our small, tight knit community is headed. As some one who believes in sharing and creating a healthy and unified climbing community, it would be a sad thing to know that my kindness and willingness to share information with our community has been taken advantage of with the theft of my property. Let's all hope this is not the case. Any info on the location of these pads would be great. It will be expensive for me to replace them so i can continue my efforts in the establishment of the Lower Teton River Canyon bouldering.

Thanks...

Dean Lords

The Teton Dam Bouldering Zone

Here's a bit of history in video format for everyone on the Teton Dam failure. I always marvel at the destruction/creation of natures forces when i walk along the the road in the bottom of the canyon.

This is an overview of the specific sectors in the Teton Dam Zone with highlights of the features at the Big Dam Boulder sector. Obviously this is an incomplete overview of established problems and projects as there are many, many easy problems that we (and others) have done over the years and projects not yet talked about. I'm sure a more complete guide will appear on Joel Neilson's web page which was created specifically for the climbing/bouldering at the Teton Dam site. However, this should be a good kick start for information on his page and a good "teaser" to get people down to the west end.

The style of movement at the Big Dam Boulder Sector is distinctly different than that of the Quarry. You can expect steeper, more gymnastic climbing which tends to favor all heights and abilities more than the Quarry Sector. Not to mention, many of the problems are less intimidating due to their shorter nature. Like the Quarry the stone is Volcanic Tuff/Ryolite.

Don't be lazy. Walk the 20 minutes. You'll have fun! Take a brush and clean things up if you do go out there. I noticed many of the older problems need some attention. And if you're going to establish new problems please do so with others in mind; brush the holds and do a thorough job so the end result is a clean quality line that others will enjoy. I am open to suggestions on the V grades to any of the problems listed here and the star ratings are based on my personal opinion of enjoyment!

Click on the images below for better detail.

The Teton Dam Bouldering SectorsLooking west (down stream) from the Dam Site
1. Switcheroo Erratics
2. The Quarry Sector
3. The Gothic Boulder
4. Lilly's Boulder
5. Brad Pit Boulder
6. The Big Dam Boulder Sector

The Big Dam Boulder SectorAs viewed from the two-track dirt road (looking south).
0. This is where #1 use to be!
1. The Cheese Wedge
2. Catacomb projects
3. The Crypt
4. Chick Rock
5.The Walrus
6. The Big Dam Boulder

The Cheese Wedge Down climb #2.
1. Open - We brushed some of it, but this wedge shaped face needs a bit more attention.
2. Sakura*** - Sit start using crimps on either side of the arete. Make a couple of hard pulls to the jug and then a bump or one big pull to the top.
3. Feta* - Sit start right of #2. Follow holds strait up. Holds on #2 are off.
4. The Big Cheese** - Same start as #3. Follow a line of crimps and slopers up and right finishing with a big move from a right hand side-pull crimp to the lip of the boulder.

**Corey King Project opposite of #1 (this one will be AWESOME!)

The Catacombs 1. The Crypt
Right to Left:
A. Rocket from the Crypt*** - Sit start on the right side. Jug hall and crimp up and left, exiting on the top left side of the feature.
B. Scream, Dracula, Scream*** - Sit start using two low crimps in the center of the face; under a small overhang. Pull up and right to another crimp near the right edge of the boulder, then back left. Connect with #A for two moves then finish strait up.
C. Ditch Digger* - Left side sit start. Move strait up and finish on #A

2. San Callisto*** - crawl into the hole. Start with the undercling. Desperate pinches and hideous slopers on the underside of this bulging and near horizontal "ships prow"; eventually reaching good holds near the top. The block and boulder to the right is off. The hardest established and recorded route to date.
3. Open Project - needs some cleaning but otherwise may not be too difficult.
4.Riley Everett Rollins Project - Sit start on the left edge. Move up a couple of moves then power right and up using pinches and underclings, then...????

Chick Rock

The Walrus

1. The Walrus - Sit start on small edges. Pull up and onto the slab to the right then up again.
2. Snake Eyes*** - Sit start on good holds in the crack. Move up and left palming the lip until two small pockets side by side (the snake eyes) can be reached. Pull to the lip. An area classic!!

The Big Dam Boulder
The West End
1. Left Side Love Handles*** - Sit start near the "cave". Follow the lip of the boulder all the way to the top of #3. Press out the mantle.
2. Love Hate Love* - Sit start. Either a BIG dyno to the jug or pull on a couple of sharp in-cut crimps. Press out the mantle.
3. Love Handles*** - Sit start with hands in the vertical pocket just right of the corner. Pull up to the jug rail and follow it up and left. Press out the mantle.
4. Dam Nation** - Sit start using the obvious big edge on the left side of the inside corner. Move up and left using pockets to gain the upper pocket/slot on the right side of the outside corner. Pinch a cool red knob and slap the top. Press out the mantle.
5. Dam the Man ** - Same start hold as #4. Move up to a pocket/side pull in the corner, hike your feet up and either static or huck to the good edge just left of the top of the inside corner
6. Another Dam Sit Start * - Sit start with hands on sloping rail. Heel hook the bottom of the rail and pull up to pockets. Traverse left using pockets and edges below the lip. Press out the mantle at the top of #3, #4, or #5
7. The Big Dam Pump - Start on the far right side and traverse the lip all the way to the left.
**Many variations to these identified lines

South side view of the Big Dam Boulder

motivated

I convinced Riley into moving large amounts of loose stone and cutting out a big patch of wicked sticker bushes at a couple of possible lines Corey and I looked at yesterday. Riley is the one who helped Heather and I build the massive landing at the Gothic Boulder so i know he's not afraid of manual labor!

The work went pretty quick and soon we found ourselves brushing holds and attempting some of the boulder problems. I've not had the best luck with my fingers the last few weeks and have been trying to take it easy. Several of the new problems offer some pretty big holds that felt okay for my stressed tendons however, my smashed middle finger from yesterday throbbed like a son of a gun anytime i put pressure on it.

We established some of the best routes (in my opinion) so far this spring at an area near the Big Dam Boulder on the west end of the Teton Dam Zone; three high quality long and steep jug hauls and two difficult projects.

Thanks for the hard work Riley and continued motivation for all of the manual labor in establishing quality boulder problems. Sorry you were in class today, Corey. Your Cheese Wedge project is still waiting for you to send it!

Rocket from the Crypt. Bigger, steeper, and longer than it looks in this photo!

That's a jug... right?

Jug Haulin' on Scream, Dracula, Scream!!

Starting on the new project.

I shot some photos of the Big Dam Boulder, The Walrus, The Crypt, Chick Rock, and the Cheese Wedge and will put together a basic topo of these erratics. There is no reason not to put in the additional minimal effort in getting out there from The Quarry. It took us 20 minutes at a slow pace from the Big Dam Boulder to the car and most of it is easy flat walking along the old two-track road. It was about 12 minutes from The Quarry.

Heather sends and a gift from the Man upstairs

The rains finally let up last night but the temperature quickly climbed during the afternoon hours today. A crew of us headed out to the Teton Dam. Heather wanted to work on some of her projects and I wanted to make the trek out to the Big Dam Boulder.

Eastern Idaho has been under the water faucet for the last few weeks and many of the area rivers are well above flood stage; the Teton River is no exception to the flooding situation. As a matter of fact, i haven't seen this much water flowing down the Lower Teton River ever.

Most people know the Teton Dam failed due to the unstable nature of the volcanic rock in-which the Teton River has cut through to create the canyon that it is now. Well, you add a lot of water to the stone and you are likely to get other minor and major failures which is exactly what happened at the Big Dam Boulder Sector of the canyon. A very large slab of rock cut loose during this last serious rain event and augured into the ground, sticking strait up into the air. This wonderful gift has now increased to total offerings at the Big Dam Boulder Sector!

We brushed oodles of mud and dirt from the boulder; some of it likely acting as the weak cement holding the massive stone in place high on the hillside. With a lot of effort and and dirt in our eyes, Heather and I along with the King family cleaned off five new boulder problems on what we are calling The Cheese Wedge. Here are some photos of the new piece of stone.

The Cheese Wedge

That's me on Heathers super cool arete. Crimps to jugs!

Heather working on the top half of my left to right face problem. Small, slopey holds and big moves on a slightly overhung face.

Heather making the big final move to the lip.

The mid section.

When Heather walked away from Lilly's Man-Child a few days ago, she was beat down and bruised from the top of her foot all the way up her left thigh from fighting with the opening moves. After only a half dozen attempts this afternoon, she made a proper send of this very difficult boulder problem.

Here's the actual send footage!

are you tired...

of all this Dam Bouldering yet? I think Heather might be! She and Riley headed down to the Crank Cave this morning to work on Soul Power. I met them at the cave a few hours later after tackling some work i needed to get done this morning. After working on Soul Power the last few weeks, Riley Rollins got the redpoint on his second attempt of the day... NICE WORK DUDE! Heather did well too, but she was unable to get it done today. I'm sure it won't be long before she crushes it!

Heather and Soul Power

This evening Heather joined me for another brushing session at the Dam Boulders. This time we focused on the upper most erratics closest to the Teton Dam itself. Our time was short but the fruits of our labors yielded two fun boulder problems.

Heather on the opening sequence of Hairdresser on Fire

Roll With It
is located in the same cluster of erratics as the above route.

I think both Heather and I are looking forward to my upcoming trip to Vermont to be done with so we can start our summer travels. Until then, we both have a few fun things to project close to home.

to wish impossible things

I needed something. As it turns out, that something was Chad Alldredge.

Yesterday i walked away from my Gothic Boulder project feeling completely beat down; not knowing what i needed to boost my spirits. Falling off of easy problems and injuring the tendons in my middle finger by being stupid and climbing crimpers in the rain didn't help either. My feet hadn't stayed on anything all day, so why would i think Lumber Jack would be a good idea?

This afternoon Heather wanted to work on The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Lily's Man-Child. Chad was keen to join us and sample those problems as well. My intentions were to carry pads and spot so i could give my finger a few days to decide what it was going to do.

After six or eight tries, Chad dispatched The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Heather was able to link the crux moves until she broke the good part off of the bad hold! She did the crux one last time with the broken hold before we headed to Lily's where Chad made quick work of the Man-Child and Heather got close to sending it.

We walked around to look at few things until Chad suggested i show him my project at the Gothic Boulder. It wasn't long before we had our shoes on and i convinced myself that big holds would not further injure my finger. After we each sampled some of the movement Chad and I trundled a large slab that was two feet thick and as big as the hood of my car. This "killer" was hanging above a possible problem and took little effort to get it to go! The good thing is we got it out of the way. The bad thing is it landed right on the platform for my project. While this is a minor set back requiring some serious landing zone modification, the end result for the evening was seeing a glimpse of the possible with my project. It's on hold until we make the landing safe again but thanks to Chad, the project is consuming me once again!

The Bela Lugosi project at the Gothic Boulder: