April 08, 2012

Info - Pointless Crag

The Pointless Crag

Located in the Wolf Flats Recreation area along the South Fork of the Snake River, Pointless is a short rim-rock basalt crag just a few miles up river from Heise Hot Springs. This zone is best thought of as a locals crag. Given the short and often chossy nature of the stone, destination climbers may find much disappointment here but locals have the benefit of new routes close to home. On a more positive note, the Pointless Crag offers a very scenic location for climbing with many easy to moderate routes and closely spaced bolts.

Somewhat reminiscent to the Main Wall at Massacre Rocks, only significantly shorter and lacking in really good stone, Pointless is nice river front property with some similar rock characteristics. Expect dirty, flakey rock in places. Loose hand and foot holds will be a common theme until the routes see a lot of traffic. If you experience dirty holds or loose stone please take a few extra minutes to brush away dirt and/or remove loose rock. In a safe manner of course! Any help to clean up these routes would be very appreciated.

Some considerations:

~Don't park on the road below the cliff. Please use the parking area next to the river west of the cliff. The parking area is 2.5 miles up the South Fork Rd from where you turn off of the Ski Hill Road.

~Please don't show up to this crag without a stick clip. Many of the 1st bolts are high and often require climbing through suspect rock to reach. PLEASE don't trust the stone getting to the first bolts on any of the routes. Protect yourself by clipping the first bolt from the ground with a stick clip.

~Many top anchors are equipped with carabiners for convenience and safety with these short routes. They are not yours to take home! Use them for lowering only. If you are going to top-rope or run lead laps, please use your own quickdraws at the anchors until the last lap, then lower off the fixed biners.

~The rock on most routes is suspect and the climber is not responsible for maintaining awareness of all persons on the ground. If you get whacked by falling rock, it's your own fault. Belay, cheer, observe, socialize in a safe place. Take it seriously and speak up if you see someone in harms way. The climber isn't looking out for your safety... you are. Take it seriously. Serious.

~Rattlesnakes, ticks, and mosquito's. Nothing more needs to be said.

~Some of the route names have been written on small rocks and placed at the base of the route to help identify what is what. These "tags" along with this list should provide an easy understanding of what route you are on!

~A climbers trail directly across from the parking lot leads to the west end of the climbing area and is marked with a small pile of river rocks. This trail will likely flood for a portion of the spring season. A second trail (the original) is located on the east end of the cliff and can be reached from the parking lot by walking east (up river) on the road for a couple hundred yards. If you get to the orange wall, you've gone too far.

From left to right:

Black Betty 5.12a - 6 bolts. Steep and powerful climbing up a black bulge with a cool arete finish. Jugs, crimps, pockets. A MUST do! HARD. Just left of where the west trail reaches the base of the cliff.

Approx 50 yards

Head on a Silver Platypus 5.10a - 6 bolts to lower off anchors. Overhanging jugs to a fun face above. Climb the right side of a horizontal scoop for the first 3 bolts, then up a fun outside corner/face. Don't cheat the crux by going far left after clipping the 3rd bolt. Hint: try moving slightly right after the 3rd bolt.
4 Alarm Fire 5.10b - Technical, pumpy and slightly overhanging. Start right and traverse up and left under the small roof to the first bolt. Don't screw up clipping the second bolt. 4 generously spaced bolts to lower off anchors. Really good climbing!
Hoppe Hill 5.10c - 5 bolts to lower off anchors. A deceptive and hard to read overhanging pumpy technical experience.
Hustle and Flow 5.12d - 6 bolts to lower off anchors. Steep and Powerful! Requires equal amounts of brain and brawn!
Goat Meal 5.10d - 6 bolts. Overhanging with big moves and some big holds to a powerful lip. Lower off anchors. It will leave a smile on your face.. a big smile!
Hungry Eyes 5.8 - Starts on the left side of a roof like arch. 8 bolts to lower off anchors. A long rambling journey on the tallest part of the cliff. Clipping the anchors might be the crux for shorter people.
Stingray 5.10c - 10 bolts to lower off anchors. Starts on the right side of roof-like arch. Gently overhanging with a sting in the tail finish! An Odyssey of enjoyment! Tallest route just before turning the corner when following the trail along the base of the wall .

Approx 20 yards

Orbit 5.10d - 8 bolts to lower off anchors. Difficult third clip. Technical crux to a rest at bolt 5 followed by a pumping juggy finish or flight time! A little dirty between the 5th and 6th bolts. CLASSIC!! The best and pumpiest 5.10d... in the world... of Pointless

Aprrox 30 yards

Rock-in My Sports Bra 5.8 - if you follow the bolt line. 5.8 if you use the nerd crack left of the 3rd bolt! The bolts are close together, just follow the bolt line...
The Disappearing Hat Trick 5.9 - Stick clip the first bolt. Cool crack feature mid route. Popular!
Crack 5.8 - first bolt of Black Bear then left and into a nice inside corner hand crack. Trad gear.
Black Bear 5.12c - Amazing arete climb on black bullet stone. Technical and thin crux. 5 bolts to anchors.
What's the Point 5.11b - funky start. Difficult second clip. Tricky overhang. Cool crack finish. SO, SO, GOOD!
11 O' Clock 5.9 - strait up fun! Look for the 11 O' Clock pocket if you get stumped! 5 bolts to anchors
Team Trailer 5.6 - super fun inside corner climb! Dirty start but well worth it once above the second bolt! Stellar experience...
The Bicycle Thief 5.10a - DO IT! 5 bolts to lower off anchors. Be careful between the first and second bolt. Pumpy column finish!
Alien Pod 5.7 - cool pod feature. Short and easy. 4 bolts. Good first lead climb.