South Park

South Park - the fitness crag

Those of you who have climbed at South Park can agree that it's some of the most unique basalt climbing in the area. The routes require a healthy dose of endurance and a good understanding of climbing choss to stomach the majority of the routes. Pinches, slopers, crimps, side-pulls, and big moves are all part of the South Park experience. Most of the routes are vertical to gently overhanging and relatively long when compared to other nearby areas. In short, South Park is our fitness crag.
  • Morning Shade/Afternoon Sun
  • 60m Rope
  • A dozen quickdraws
  • Stick Clip

The Wall of Epoxy

The Wall of Epoxy
Near the right side of the main wall is an overhanging section of wall with a handful of high quality routes. The Wall of Epoxy holds the best of the best South Park routes in my opinion. A lot of time went into the establishment of these routes and great care was taken to insure loose holds would remain; hence the title. NO holds were added or enhanced on these routes.

Full South Park beta can be found at:
  • Government Shutdown 5.13a - Bouldery start. Techy middle. Sunday walk to the anchors. Try hard!
  • In-between Days 5.12d - 6 bolts to lower off anchors. Hard. Steep start with big moves and some sequencing to the lip... then get your wide pinch game on! Clipping the anchors can be cruxy!
    Stephen Elmer on the crux pinches of In-between Days
  • Temptation 5.12a - 8 black bolt hangers. Tricky opening moves leads to big pulls on good holds. The crux comes mid route - starting with a nasty crimp followed by a pumpy bulge and some rambling to a set of lower off anchors.
    Pinches and long pulls between good holds, Temptation 5.12a
  • Drive-by Trucker 5.12b - 9 bolts to sport anchors. Excellent movement and a variety of crimps, slopers and big moves with several cruxes! A favorite! Endurance is the main attraction for this route.
    Smokin' tires... Heather Lords on Drive-by Trucker 5.12b
  • EDS 5.13a - A Matt TeNgiao classic and the best route on the Wall of Epoxy. Fixed chain draw on the 2nd bolt. Easily my favorite route at South Park. A must do!

Stephen Elmer in the crux of EDS 5.13a

  • Ricardo 5.12c - Overhanging endurance climbing with a couple of cruxes. So, so, so GOOD!
  • Mr. Hanky 5.12a - This route traverses right for the first few bolts then shoots strait up the overhanging wall above. 9 bolts to sport anchors. Still some choss.
Heather mid route on Mr. Hanky 5.12a